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We’re meant to be climbing mountains, but I’m locked in a staring competition with a rather large silver kingfish that seems to have no sense of personal space as it peers into my snorkel mask. I’m at Ned’s Beach, one of several practically perfect curves of white sand flanked by a fringing coral reef on Lord Howe Island where, beneath the shade of kentia palms, our guide is grilling up a feast of just-caught seafood. But there’s something off-putting about making eye contact with your lunch minutes before you eat it, so I’m thinking I may stick to scallops.
It’s day four of the Seven Peaks walk, a new five-day guided hike that explores the island on a series of day outings — some that are off limits to the public — returning to the comfort of Pinetrees Lodge at the end of each day. Most of the peaks are really just hills, although even 200m can seem like a lot when your starting point is level with the sea. The previous day we’d climbed the highest of the lot, the mighty Mount Gower, a vertiginous eight-hour return trek that began on a boulder-strewn beach and a stroll along the Lower Road — a narrow track along a cliff ledge 100m above the sea that is neither low nor road — and culminated with an above-the-clouds view of the entire island 875 muscle-destroying metres above where we began.
We’ve got two more to conquer, but no one feels like scaling any peaks or hills after climbing Mount Gower, so we’ve opted to soothe sore legs by spending the day floating above the coral and exploring rock pools at low tide.
Welcome to the new world of luxury walking holidays, where you need to be fit, not hearty. The tough climbs, such as Gower, are optional and the walking program is flexible, with plenty of time for swimming, kayaking and lazing about with a good book. Beds are soft and dining is about as far away from rehydrated rations cooked in an aluminium pot as you can get — the chefs crafting our nightly four-course meal at Pinetrees previously worked at Bilson’s, Aria and Fins — and all you need to carry is your lunch, water bottle and a camera.
The Lord Howe Island Seven Peaks Walk is the latest to join the Great Walks of Australia collective and part of a growing trend for guided wilderness walks with luxe facilities at day’s end.
Hobart-based adventure company the Maria Island Walk — its four-day traverse of Maria Island on Tasmania’s east coast, staying in African-style safari camps, is one of the collective’s signature walks — recently launched a new three-day winter walking holiday for those who like the idea of spending days bushwalking on a remote Tasmanian island but don’t fancy glamping in winter.
Based in the historic five-bedroom, two-bathroom Bernacchi House in the World Heritage-listed convict settlement of Darlington for both nights, we venture out on day walks, retreating to the fireside comfort (and hot showers) of the antique-filled home at the end of the day to enjoy Tasmanian cheese and wine and a three-course meal — local wakame soup, pork belly with roast fennel and tangy lemon tart one night; rocket, pumpkin and parmesan salad with crispy skin Huon Valley salmon followed by a wicked triple chocolate mud cake the next. With no heavy backpacks to carry, it’s a leisurely way to explore the northern half of the island — more of a stroll and a wander than a trek or a hike, although there is an optional climb up to the top of Bishop and Clerk, Maria’s second highest peak, on the final day for those not keen to sleep in.
Also new, although strictly a summertime proposition, is a nature cruise to Bathurst Harbour and Port Davey in the Tasmanian southwest wilderness. Departing from a waterway beside the remote airstrip at Melaleuca (a thrillingly scenic 45-minute flight from Hobart) Tasmanian Boat Charters has the only permit for on-water accommodation in the region. The three, five and seven-day cruises aboard a custom-made abalone boat with three double cabins and three bathrooms are opening up this isolated world to travellers keen on exploring one of Australia’s hardest to reach places but not so eager to spend eight days hiking to get there. Days are spent walking (or not, if you prefer), nights cocooned on the boat with a glass of wine or craft beer while a chef (usually on loan from a Hobart fine diner — they are just as keen to tick this place off their bucket list as the guests) cooks dinner.
Tassie has always been the adventure heartland for those who like long walks in the wilderness. Cradle Mountain Huts, the pioneer of lodge-based walking holidays, has been shepherding hikers along the Overland Track between Cradle Mountain and Lake St Clair since 1987, but now also offers a winter walk (expect plenty of snow), an adventure walk with a few more summits than the classic six-day trek and a shorter four-day option that covers the first half of the track. The hot showers and warm welcome of just-cooked muffins and three-course meals with wine in the wilderness at day’s end are still as good as ever.
Australia’s other famous long-distance walk, the 223km Larapinta Trail in the West MacDonnell Ranges west of Alice Springs, also has a comfort option. World Expeditions runs six-day treks that take in all the highlights, including waterholes, a sunrise trek to the top of 1380m-high Mount Sonder, visits to Aboriginal communities and art centres, optional helicopter flights and, new this year, a bush tucker experience with native foods collected from the surrounding country. New trips on offer include a women’s only adventure and an art expedition for aspiring artists, led by Sydney artist Michael Herron.
Accommodation is three semipermanent desert camps set up with a shower heated by a wood-fired “donkey stove” and eco-friendly toilets. The heart of the camp is a large open-sided hard-floored shelter, warmed against the night-time desert chill by gas heaters and set up with lounges, tables, solar lights and camera charging stations, where three-course meals are served along with any beer and wine that you’ve brought with you. After dinner it’s hard to resist the lure of the campfire, swapping stories by firelight, and even though the tents are roomy most drag their beds outside and sleep under the star-filled sky.
AND TRY THESE …
Murray River Walk:Four-day easy walk following the Murray River from Renmark to the South Australia-Victorian border and back. While you walk, a 10-berth houseboat complete with top-deck spa and hot showers motors down the river to greet you with canapes and Riverland sparkling wine, followed by a three-course meal. You don’t even need to bring your own gear — a day pack and walking pole are supplied. From $2300; murrayriverwalk.com.au/the-murray-river-walk.
Scenic Rim Trail: Four-day moderate to hard walk exploring the peaks and valleys west of Brisbane run by luxury accommodation group Spicers Retreats. Two nights are spent at Spicers Canopy in posh safari tents with top-of-the-mountain views and one night at Spicers Peak Lodge — one of the Luxury Lodges of Australia — with a degustation dinner and matching wines. Massage treatments at the day spa are optional. From $2290; scenicrimtrail.com.
Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk:Australia’s most famous stretch of road is just as spectacular on foot. Covering 55km across four days, the three nights on this walk are spent at the eco-friendly Twelve Apostles Lodge and the good news for singles is that you don’t have to pay extra for a single room. Built specifically with hikers in mind, creature comforts, beyond ensuites and hot showers, include drying rooms for wet gear and foot spas for tired feet. From $1995; twelveapostleslodgewalk.com.au.
Margaret River Cape to Cape Walk:Four-day walk along sections of Western Australia’s stunning southwest coastal track — a mix of beach walking, clifftop trails and forest paths. Nights are spent in an ocean-view villa with private plunge pool at Injidup Spa Retreat (spa treatments are a popular optional extra) and highlights include winery lunches, clifftop drinks at sunset and a degustation dinner at Cape Lodge. Go in winter to see whales or spring for wildflowers. From $2490; capetocapewalk.com.au.
Three Capes Lodge Walk:One to plan for, this new four-day guided walk along Tasmania’s Tasman Peninsula near Port Arthur — a dramatic landscape of rock pillars, sheer-sided headlands, high dolerite cliffs and wild seas — is due to kick off in September next year. Private lodges — the only ones on the track — are under construction but promise great views and outdoor platforms perfect for stargazing with a glass of Tassie pinot at the end of the day. From $2790; taswalkingco.com.au.
Sоurсе: theaustralian.com.au